Djej M'Chermel (Chicken with Lemon and Olives)

There are three classic versions of chicken with preserved lemon and olives in Moroccan cuisine. M'chermel has an oniony sauce and ripe green-brown olives. Djej bil zaitun has cracked green olives in abundance, and the djej mquali has red-brown olives and the sauce is thickened with chicken giblets and livers. Usually the chicken is combined with onions, spices and water and simmered until tender. If you like your chicken to have color, however, brown it first in oil or butter. You can also marinate the chicken pieces overnight in a little oil with the spices and garlic. If the olives seem too bitter, soak them in cold water for an hour, or bring them to a boil with water to cover and then drain. This recipe is a middle-of-the-road interpretation of the three classics. If you wish to make a version that more closely reflects the traditional djej bil zaitun, add 2 cups (10 oz/315 g) cracked green olives, pitted, in place of the 1 cup (5 oz/155 g) green olives. For djej mquali, use ½ cup (2½ oz/75 g) Kalamata or Gaeta olives for the green olives. Serve with couscous (recipe on page 204) or rice (recipe on page 200).

Instructions

• In a large saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the chicken pieces, liver, giblets, onion, garlic, paprika, ginger, cumin, turmeric or saffron, parsley, salt, pepper and oil. Warm gradually, turning the ingredients in the oil for a few minutes, then add the water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered, occasionally turning the chicken in the sauce, until almost tender, 30–40 minutes.
• Remove the chicken liver and giblets and mash them well, then return them to the sauce. Add the preserved lemon peel, olives and lemon juice and continue to cook until the chicken is very tender, about 15 minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more lemon juice if you like. Transfer to a platter. If the sauce is too thin, remove only the chicken to the platter and reduce the sauce over high heat. Then spoon the sauce, olives and lemon strips over the chicken. Serve at once.