Mashed Potatoes

(This is a technique feature with photos, not a full recipe with quantities. The base "Perfect Mashed Potatoes" recipe it refers to, on page 104 of the magazine, is not included in the book.)

The Techniques

What's the secret to light and buttery mashed potatoes? It's all about using the right techniques in the right order.

1. LEAVE THE SKINS ON The skin keeps potatoes from falling apart and absorbing too much water while boiling. Start by placing whole, unpeeled potatoes in a pot of cold water.
2. DRY THEM OUT Even unpeeled, the potatoes will still soak up some water while boiling. When waterlogged, they don't absorb butter as well and can become pasty. So after peeling and mashing (see "The Tools"), dry the potatoes by stirring them in a large saucepan over medium heat for about two minutes.
3. FATTEN THEM UP After drying, add the butter, stirring until fully absorbed. By coating the starch before any liquid is added, your mash will be fluffier and less gluey.
4. MIX IN THE LIQUID Stirring in milk is the final step. The milk must be warm so that the potatoes don't become cold or gummy.

The Tools

Chances are, you already have a favorite tool for mashing. But there's more than one way to get the job done. A masher is the most obvious choice; it makes wonderfully rustic and chunky potatoes that hold gravy well. For a more elegant mash, use a ricer or, even better, a food mill. The food mill has two advantages over the ricer: It removes the potato's peel and it can puree more than one potato at a time. In a pinch, you can use a stand mixer. Make sure to use the paddle and keep the speed on low so that you don't overwork the potato's starch. (Never use a blender, hand mixer, or processor. These are guaranteed to make a gluey mess of your mash.)

The Do-Ahead

Reduce Thanksgiving stress by getting this dish out of the way early in the day. If you cook, mash, and mix the potatoes Thursday morning, all you have to do is reheat them at mealtime. Here's how.

If serving in less than an hour: Prepare mashed potatoes. Transfer to bowl; cover with foil. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. This will keep the potatoes warm until the rest of dinner is ready.

If dinner's more than an hour away: Prepare mashed potatoes; cool. Transfer to bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill up to six hours. Just before dinner, reheat potatoes in the microwave or in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir occasionally and add a little warm milk to adjust the consistency. (Once hot, mix in any additional ingredients if preparing a variation; see page 108.)

The Variations

(From PDF page 119, headed "Mashed Potatoes (Continued)")

Want to make your mashed potatoes even better? Try one of these riffs on our Perfect Mashed Potatoes (see page 104).

Chipotle-White Cheddar Mashed Potatoes

Prepare Perfect Mashed Potatoes. Mash in 1 cup grated white cheddar cheese and 1 to 2 teaspoons of pureed chipotle chiles in adobo.* Season with salt.

\Available at some supermarkets and at Latin markets.*

Caramelized-Shallot and Sage Mashed Potatoes

Prepare Perfect Mashed Potatoes. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in heavy medium skillet over high heat. Add 2 cups thinly sliced shallots; sauté until tender, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low; stir until shallots are golden, about 5 minutes longer. Add 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage, 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar, and 2 teaspoons sugar; stir until caramelized, about 2 minutes. Stir shallot-sage mixture into potatoes. Season with salt.

Sour Cream-Horseradish Mashed Potatoes

Prepare Perfect Mashed Potatoes (but do not add milk). Whisk 1 cup sour cream, ⅓ cup chopped chives, and ¼ cup prepared horseradish in medium bowl. Fold sour cream mixture into potatoes. Season with salt.

Saffron-Corn Mashed Potatoes

Prepare Perfect Mashed Potatoes (but do not add milk). Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add ¾ cup chopped onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add 1 cup fresh corn kernels (cut from 1 ear of corn) and 4 minced garlic cloves. Cook until corn is soft, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add ½ cup milk and ⅛ teaspoon saffron threads. Bring just to boil; remove from heat, cover, and let steep 10 minutes. Stir into potatoes. Season with salt.